Takeaway Test: Pizza Takeaway and Delivery in Miami
Pizza has been the food of the pandemic boom for several reasons. The pizzerias were already set up for delivery, they are generally affordable, and diners consider the pizzas comforting.
More than ever, Miami is attracting its fair share of pizza restaurants, ranging from the traditional Neapolitan to New York-style to the inventive foodie.
Between soccer games and the isolation induced by the coronavirus, there’s a good chance you’ll find yourself wanting to stay home sweating with a pizza. New times anonymously sampled three of Miami’s hottest pizzas to see how they fared from the oven at home.
Below, listed alphabetically, are our findings.
Pizza Bonci (232 NW 24th St., Miami; 786-522-2135; bonciusa.com), originally from Rome, was greeted by Anthony Bourdain during an episode of 2011 The stopover. Owner Gabriele Bonci expanded his Roman Empire by opening a pizzeria in Chicago a few years ago before adding a spot in Wynwood in November.
Bonci makes interesting Roman pizzas, including spicy shrimp and eggplant and salmon burrata, on a dough that takes 72 hours to rise. Enter and choose from a daily rotation; staff cut the slices with scissors and bill you by the pound.
Delivery, however, is another story.
Flavors are limited to standards – four meats, three veg, and three veg – and you can only order in pairs of slices that read like a sports cheer: two ($ 7.50 – $ 13), four ($ 15 – $ 26) or eight ($ 30- $ 52). It hurts the wallet pretty quickly. On the plus side, the “Slice” app lets you specify both the time and the way you want your pizza: “End here to have it delivered hot, ready to eat” or “Finish at the. house so that it is beautiful and warm when you want it “.
It would be great if it worked, but it all arrived 15 minutes earlier at the same sidewalk slab crust texture and Miami-winter day temperature in the same pizza box (vegans take note). Every slice, from the vegan mushroom to the all-beef meatball version, tasted stale. The most intriguing, the lemon ricotta zucchini pizza, was the blandest.
David Foulquier closed his eponymous downtown restaurant to open Eleventh Street Pizza (1035 N. Miami Avenue, Miami; 786-536-2749; onzethstreetpizza.com) last February, with his brother Joshua and Danielle Hultman as partners.
Pizza combinations range from classic to contemporary, made with organic Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes and a sourdough crust from a seven-year-old “mother”. The 16-inch New York-style pies and Sicilian square-style (16 slices) are pricey ($ 24-42), but they’re also tough enough to survive both delivery and reheating with a thunderous crackle. You can also order the Sicilian by the slice, which is large enough for two to share.
There isn’t much variety – five rounds and four Sicilian options – but the pepperoni version, enriched with Calabrian chili paste and tempered with honey, is a clear winner. This is the case with a vegan tart, “la Provençale”, which reinterprets ratatouille with candied garlic, roasted red onions, zucchini, basil and pepperoncini. For the basics, you can order the “Carmine Cheese”, but the more adventurous should try the “Brooklyn Cheese”, an upside-down version where the sauce rests on the cheese. An endearing note: a complication developed in our Uber delivery. Rather than ignore, the restaurant contacted both the app and the customer to propose a solution.
Sagra Pizza Bar (11052 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-384-4759; sagrapizzabar.com) also opened during the pandemic. Sagra offers Roman pies, baked outdoors for two to three minutes at 700 degrees in an imported Valoriani wood-fired oven.
The 15 affordable personal-size options (all $ 12) range from a savory meatball and fior di latte to a Miami Cuban pizza topped with prosciutto cotto, pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard .
Even via delivery, the pizzas are pretty wrapped, with whole clams still in the shell adorning the vongole and grilled shrimp, spicy artichoke and arugula an eye-catching contrast. The problem is the crust, which turns into a warped sponge in the cardboard box.
Reheating these pies is also a major problem, as the crust collapses through the oven racks, allowing the toppings to fall out of the sides. This is the kind of pizza you should eat on the spot within minutes of cooking, not 30 to 45 minutes later, unless you like scooping clams from the bottom of your oven.